Few skincare ingredients have become as ubiquitous as niacinamide. From drugstore shelves to social feeds, niacinamide serums are everywhere, and their evangelists make a persuasive case for adding them to your skincare routine. Admittedly, I’ve never truly succumbed to the hype – with a history of skin troubles including acne and hyperpigmentation, I’ve developed a penchant for stronger stuff. Retinols, peels, acids and peroxides: there are few actives I haven’t tried to save my skin. But consulting the experts, I learn that by underestimating niacinamide, I may have overlooked the simplest saviour of them all.
- Dr Simon Ourian is a cosmetic dermatologist, CEO of renowned Beverley Hills clinic Epione and the founder of Simon Ourian MD Skincare.
- Kelly Saynor is a qualified aesthetic nurse and clinical director of Medica Forte.
“Niacinamide is a very beneficial skincare ingredient for those who want a calm, even-toned, hydrated and stronger skin barrier,” says Dr Ourian. If I could trust any expert on the formula for healthy skin, it’s him: he tends to the skin of stars such as Kim Kardashian in his leading LA practice. Citing several studies, he adds that it’s “scientifically proven to be effective for treating a number of skin conditions” – including acne, rosacea, enlarged pores and fine lines – and that it does so “without side effects.” In short, it’s a gentle but effective solution to some of the most stubborn skin concerns, which is reason enough to invest in a good niacinamide serum. Below, everything else you need to know.
SKIP TO: The best niacinamide serums | What is niacinamide? | What does niacinamide do for the skin? | Is 10% niacinamide too much?
What is niacinamide?
“Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3,” Saynor tells me, explaining that the vitamin is so valuable in skincare as it helps improve overall health and the appearance of skin texture. It is also a humectant (translation: it draws water into the skin) so supports hydration and a supple complexion.
What does niacinamide do for your skin?
When quizzed on the actual benefits of niacinamide, both experts share a veritable laundry list. Niacinamide soothes redness, reduces inflammation and controls excess oil. Great for acne sufferers, it regulates sebum production in the skin, thereby minimising enlarged pores – which Dr Ourian tells us results in smoother-looking skin. It’s equally effective for dark spots: Saynor says it inhibits the transfer of pigment to the epidermis which in turn reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation for a more even skin tone. According to Saynor, “it also helps your skin produce ceramides, which are essential for maintaining a healthy barrier that keeps moisture in and irritants out,” with Dr Ourian confirming that this offers enhanced protection against environmental damage. As such, it’s a choice ingredient for those with eczema. And because it strengthens the skin barrier (and promotes collagen production to boot) it can minimise fine lines, too. While niacinamide’s hydrating effects are instant, don’t expect results on pigmentation or wrinkles overnight. “Consistency is key,” says Saynor, who recommends regular use over 8-12 weeks before you can expect to see results.
Is 10 per cent niacinamide too much?
The ideal concentration of niacinamide in a serum depends on the skin concern you want to treat. “A five per cent concentration of niacinamide is more than adequate and has been shown to be effective in hydrating, improving fine lines and reducing hyperpigmentation over time.” Dr Ourian says. Elaborating, Kelly tells me fine per cent is great for beginners or those with sensitive skin. For faster results, stepping up to 10 per cent can be beneficial, especially if you are targeting particularly large pores and/or extensive hyperpigmentation. But Dr Ourian cautions against using percentages higher than 12 per cent without an expert recommendation. “While they are safe and fine to go up to, there is the potential for irritation. As with everything, test niacinamide serum on a small area to assess your tolerance levels and gradually increase usage when your skin adjusts,” he advises.
Equipped with the facts, I realised I’d be foolish to not give niacinamide serums a try. Scroll on for the picks that come expert (and reformed-sceptic) approved.
- Best niacinamide serum for beginners: Beauty of Joseon Propolis + Niacinamide Serum, £10.20
- Best high-strength niacinamide serum: Facetheory Porebright Serum N20 Pro, £35
- Best Korean niacinamide serum: Anua Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid Serum, £20
- Best niacinamide serum sheet mask: MZ Skin Vitamin-Infused Meso Masks, £100
- Best serum for controlling shine: Kiehl’s Ultra Pure 5% Niacinamide Serum, £30
- Best niacinamide serum for hyperpigmentation: Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum, £39.99
Anua Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid Serum
- Niacinamide strength: 10 per cent
- Key ingredients: tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
This niacinamide serum doesn’t just stop excess sebum in its tracks – it mends wounds and targets dark marks, too. Bolstered by brightening ingredients, consistent use helps lift old acne scars and heal active breakouts. Thanks to the work of tranexamic acid – which sounds intense, but accelerates blood clotting on broken skin – it’s a great choice for strengthening an impaired skin barrier.
Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum
Topicals
Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Topicals’ niacinamide serum takes the form of a lightweight, soothing cream – whipped with shea butter, it’s a delight to apply to damaged skin. Exactly the kind of salve you want handy on holiday, the mess-free tube is host to several hero pigment inhibitors that prevent and reverse signs of sun damage. “This is the serum that set me straight on niacinamide’s prowess: it melts into the skin and improves oiliness almost instantly,” explains beauty writer Tracy Achonwa. “Not only that, but my skin has been pretty much poreless since I tried it, which is a welcome change on my textured, pimple-prone skin. Of course, the roster of other ingredients plays a role in its effectiveness for hyperpigmentation. It has nearly every tyrosinase inhibitor there is and really does do what its name suggests, while keeping skin feeling comfortable and non-sensitised with soothing allantoin and centella asiatica.”
- Niacinamide strength: 3-4 per cent
- Key ingredients: azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, centella asiatica
- Niacinamide strength: 3-4 per cent
- Key ingredients: azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, centella asiatica
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Topicals’ niacinamide serum takes the form of a lightweight, soothing cream – whipped with shea butter, it’s a delight to apply to damaged skin. Exactly the kind of salve you want handy on holiday, the mess-free tube is host to several hero pigment inhibitors that prevent and reverse signs of sun damage. “This is the serum that set me straight on niacinamide’s prowess: it melts into the skin and improves oiliness almost instantly. Not only that, but my skin has been pretty much poreless since I tried it, which is a welcome change on my textured, pimple-prone skin. Of course, the roster of other ingredients play a role in its effectiveness for hyperpigmentation. It has near on every tyrosinase inhibitor there is and really does do what its name suggests, while keeping skin feeling comfortable and non-sensitised with soothing allantoin and centella asiatica.” – Tracy Achonwa, beauty writer
Beauty Of Joseon Propolis + Niacinamide Glow Serum
- Niacinamide strength: 2 per cent
- Key ingredients: propolis, BHA, tamanu oil, tea tree extract
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Characteristically gentle, this K-Beauty favourite is for those who prefer a low and slow approach. Its relatively low niacinamide concentration is supported by antibacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredients, and a mild BHA exfoliant has been included to decongest clogged pores. Expect decreased redness and improvements to dullness, in a slightly viscous formula that dehydrated skin types will love.
Facetheory Porebright Serum N20
- Niacinamide strength: 20 per cent
- Key ingredients: azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Yes, Facetheory’s serum is super concentrated, but packing 20 per cent niacinamide, a little goes a very long way. Just a few drops help to effectively target breakouts, texture and dark marks alike, thanks to a preparation that includes gentle but mighty azelaic acid. Combined with niacinamide, it can be called on to manage acne and rosacea symptoms with impressive before and after results – just scan through the glowing reviews. If you’re concerned about sensitivity, it also comes in a 10 per cent concentration so you can pick the right potion for your skin’s tolerance levels. ”At 10 per cent, this concentration is a good option for those looking to target concerns like enlarged pores and uneven skin tone,” Saynor says.
Medik8 Clarity Peptides Niacinamide Infused Serum
- Niacinamide strength: 10 per cent
- Key ingredients: zinc PCA, Crystalide™ peptide, N-acetyl glucosamine, hyaluronic acid
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
If there is a checklist of what to look for in a niacinamide serum, this one from Medik8 ticks every box. It’s non-sticky, offers a suitably potent percentage of niacinamide and boasts a supporting cast of ingredients that only enhance its effects. The lesser known of these is N-acetyl glucosamine, which promotes antioxidant production as well as helping to clear skin by blocking the production of post-inflammatory pigment.
Kiehl’s Ultra Pure Niacinamide Serum
Kiehls
Ultra Pure 5% Niacinamide Serum
- Niacinamide strength: Five per cent
- Key ingredients: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Plain and simple, Kiehl’s pick has the least potential for irritation and offers niacinamide at Dr Ourian’s recommended five per cent. This no-frills formula is ideal for targeting excess oil on more sensitive skin, with the kind of weightless consistency those who get blackheads and acne will appreciate.
- Niacinamide strength: Five per cent
- Key ingredients: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Plain and simple, Kiehl’s pick has the least potential for irritation and offers niacinamide at Dr Ourian’s recommended five per cent. This no-frills formula is ideal for targeting excess oil on more sensitive skin, with the kind of weightless consistency those who get blackheads and acne will appreciate.
MZ Skin Vitamin-Infused Meso Masks
- Niacinamide strength: 1.5 per cent
- Key ingredients: camellia leaf extract, liquorice root extract, aloe vera, arbutin
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Great for a niacinamide hit on the go, these doctor-designed sheet masks offer an instant fix. What they lack in concentration, they more than make up for in results: they’re impregnated with all kinds of reparative ingredients that soothe the skin barrier. What’s more, with everything from arbutin and allantoin, they don’t exacerbate acne while brightening blemishes the skin. “I’m very picky about my sheet masks, because I find occluding the skin with too much has triggered breakouts for me in the past. These are saturated with just enough serum to plump up the skin, but without that sticky feeling or any signs of irritation. I’m obsessed.“ – Tracy Achonwa, beauty writer
Paula’s Choice Clinical Niacinamide Treatment
- Niacinamide strength: 20 per cent
- Key ingredients: licorice, glycerin, purslane panthenol and camellia
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Niacinamide ranks highly on this serum’s INCI list – in second place in fact – which tells you all you need to know about how powerful of a preparation it is. Best for those who have built up a tolerance and are looking for even better results, Saynor advises that it is a particularly high concentration that may be irritating for some, “especially those with sensitive skin.” Reviewers rave about its results for bringing down inflamed breakouts overnight, and granting softer, more even skin overall.
COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum
- Niacinamide strength: 15 per cent
- Key ingredients: acetyl glucosamine, zinc PCA
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Cult K-beauty brand COSRX offers a serum for intermediate niacinamide users, with a weightless formula that works wonders on redness and a damaged barrier. Using zinc to protect against bacteria, assist in oil control and prevent new blemishes forming, consider it a sound investment for healthier, clearer skin.
4.5.6 Skin Hyperpigmentation Correcting Serum
4.5.6 Skin Sevenly Delight Hyperpigmentation Correcting Serum
- Key ingredients: vitamin C complex, niacinamide, glutathione, azelaic acid
- Benefits: softens skin texture, fights acne, boo
- Best for: easing breakouts on acne-prone skin, fading hyperpigmentation and increasing radiance
- How to apply: Apply 1-2 pumps morning and night.
- Size: 30ml
Why we love it: Boasting an expert blend of vitamin C, niacinamide and azelaic acid, choose this serum to brighten your dark marks and in the process, it will do so much more. Its ingredient list is home to nearly every skincare hero there is, from antibacterial azelaic acid that quells acne, to tyronisase inhibitors that reduce excess melanin production and pore minimising powerhouses like niacinamide. “There is no stronger review for a serum than being so good that you order a top up as soon as it runs out, and that’s exactly what this serum made me do.” says Tracy Achonwa, Vogue beauty writer. “It has a watery consistency that absorbs almost immediately leaving no sticky residue behind, so it really is as delightful to use as its name suggests. Best of all, it actually works, and quickly at that – I noticed improvements to acne scars I have had for years within the first two weeks. Thanks no doubt to its cohort of complementary actives, it’s the single most effective vitamin C serum I have tried.”
- Key ingredients: niacinamide, glutathione, azelaic acid, alpha arbutin, ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, zinc PCA
Why it’s Vogue-approved: With specific formulations for Fitzpatrick skin tones 4, 5 and 6, this is the niacinamide serum to know for those with melanin-rich skin. Select your skin tone, and you’ll have a bespoke blend that targets excess pigment without a bleaching effect. Thanks to a healthy dose of skin brighteners (azelaic acid, glutathione and vitamin C to name a few) it delivers on its promise of radiant skin, also refining skin texture and reducing inflammation with its barrier-boosting ingredients.
“Aptly named, this serum is a delight to apply – it glides on like silk and sinks in in seconds for comfortably hydrated skin. It doesn’t pill under moisturiser or make-up, and doesn’t only lift stubborn dark marks. I’ve found it brings your overall colour back in the best way, delivering a smooth, glowy and unified complexion – which is no easy feat on brown skin.” – Tracy Achonwa, beauty writer